Fly+Tying+Instructional+Page

Fishing Facts and Flys of Central PA By Doug Alichwer and Greg Goldthorp

== Table of Contents || **  **
 * [[file:///H:/Trout/flys.htm#facts|Fishing Fast Facts]] ||
 * [[file:///H:/Trout/flys.htm#insect_lifecycle|Insect Lifecycle]] || [[file:///H:/Trout/flys.htm#harvey|Harvey/Humphreys Leader System]] ||
 * [[file:///H:/Trout/flys.htm#nymphs|Nymph Recipes]] || [[file:///H:/Trout/flys.htm#wetflies|Wet Fly Recipes]] ||
 * [[file:///H:/Trout/flys.htm#dryflies|Dry Fly Recipe]] || [[file:///H:/Trout/flys.htm#terrestrials|Terrestrials Recipes]] ||
 * [[file:///H:/Trout/flys.htm#streamers|Streamer Recipes]] || [[file:///H:/Trout/flys.htm#miscellaneous|Miscellaneous Fly Recipes]] ||
 * [[file:///H:/Trout/flys.htm#shoppinglist|Shopping List]] || [[file:///H:/Trout/flys.htm#monthly|Monthly Fly Chart]] ||
 * [[file:///H:/Trout/flys.htm#sources/links|Sources/Links]] ||  ||

Basics = Tools = = To successfully tie flies, there are some basic tools you will need. = = · Vise- Probably the most important piece of equipment. Naturally, it holds the hook in place while you tie the fly. Make sure all parts operate smoothly. Check the jaws. They should come together evenly. The finish should be dull to cut down on eyestrain. The vise should rotate 360 degrees. This allows you to check/work on the underside of the fly. It basically comes down to this: buy the best one you can afford. = = · Bodkin/Half Hitch Tool- A needle on one end, used to apply head cement and to pluck hairs on the fly. Hollow tube on the other end to tie half-hitches. = = · Small Sewing Scissors- Make sure these are of good quality. The points should line up when closed. Used to trim the fly and cut material. = = · Bobbin- Holds the spool of thread. The knobs that hold the thread are usually made of plastic or ceramic. The ceramic ones allow the spool to turn easier. If you can afford a few of these, buy them. You can save time by having a few spools ready to go. = = · Whip Finisher- Ties the perfect knot to finish the fly. = = · Hair Stacker- If you plan on working with deer hair, then a hiar stacker is a must. It allows you to easily align the tips that are to be tied. The stacker comes in two pieces. Both should fit together perfectly and not rattle if you shake it. = = · Dubbing Wax- This helps the fur stick to the thread. It usually comes in a stick, similar to lip balm. = = · Head Cement- Not only does it secure the thread when the fly is completed but can also be used to secure material to the hook. = = Hooks = = There are several brands on the market, they are identified by a number. The first item in a fly recipe is the type of hook to be used. The difference between dry fly and wet fly/nymph/streamer hooks is the weight of the wire. Depending on where you purchase supplies, you may be able to buy a smaller quantity of hooks. Hooks usually come in packs of 25 or 100. Decide what size flies best suit your needs and buy those hooks to match. = = Materials = = The key to buying materials is, again, decide what flies best fit your needs. Most materials can be bought for a few dollars each. The most expensive piece of material will be the rooster neck for tying dry flies. Even with this you can purchase a #2 grade neck and save some money. If you are a hunter or trapper or know someone who is, you can preserve and dye some or your own hides to tie with. = = The Tying Area = = You have bought your tools and materials and are now ready to tie. Find a place that is comfortable. Your vise should be within easy reach and materials close at hand. Comfort is very important, if you get stiff and sore after tying one or two flies, you are going to become irritated and discouraged. When everything is set up properly you can literally spend hours at the vise. Good lighting is very important, be sure to have enough. The last thing which is helpful and can save on eye strain, is to have a light background to tie against. A pastel green or white ink blotter works well. = =Beginner Help=
 * You may be asking yourself, why should I take up a hobby like fly tying? Well, there are several reasons. Reason one, because during the off-season of trout fishing, you can stay in touch with this incredible sport. Reason two, because you can daydream about all the ones that wont get away. Reason three, there is no better feeling than catching a trout on something you created. Finally, if you are fishing correctly you are going to loose some flies. Imagine if you will, you are out on your favorite stream, trout are moving and your fly is bumping the bottom. Your fly catches a rock and must be broken off. Hang ups are part of the fishing experience and so is getting snagged in brush. After a few snags, you could be out several dollars of store bought flies. If you are an avid fisherman, you know that losing flies is all part of the fun. At an average of $1.50 per fly, a day on the water can turn into an expensive little venture. If you have experienced enough of this, you have probably decided to tie your own flies. Most fishermen will attest that fly tying is not only easy but also fun. Once you get the hang of it, most flies take only a few minutes to tie and cost only a fraction (between $.25-$.40) of the price you pay in the store. There is nothing more satisfying than to see a fat trout hanging from one of the flies you have skillfully tied. After your initial start up cost of tools and supplies, there is nothing more to buy. Your supplies will last you through many tying sessions and most of the materials do not cost more than a few dollars to replace. (see [[file:///H:/Trout/flys.htm#shoppinglist|Shopping List]]) When compiling supplies, keep the following in mind: 1) purchase your tools and supplies individually and not in a kit. The reason is, you will end up with material you will probably never use and will have to purchase additional items anyway. 2) decide what flies you want to tie and only purchase the material needed for them. As with all hobbies, the initial start up cost is the worst part. That is the only bad news, The good news is that you can purchase all your tools and materials for about $200 - $250 if you shop around at the different fly shops and online.**

= =

 || ** **
 * [[file:///H:/Trout/flys.htm#streamerfacts|Streamer Fast Facts]] ||
 * [[file:///H:/Trout/flys.htm#wetflyfast|Wet Fly Fast Facts]] ||
 * [[file:///H:/Trout/flys.htm#wetflyfast|Wet Fly Fast Facts]] ||

= Nymphing Fast Facts = = = = · Ninety-five percent of the time trout feed on the bottom. When you look at 365 days in a year only a small portion of those days do trout move to the top or sub-surface to feed. = = · The best outfit is a 9-foot rod with six-weight line. I prefer double-taper floating line (Cortland 444). Sometimes I go with deep running line by Cortland when the streams are high or when Im on big water. This technique is like fishing nymphs with flat-monofilament line. = = · Nymph fishing can be done in all types of water, but I prefer the pockets, riffles, and deep runs. Trout dont have as much time to inspect your flies in fast water and this increases your chances of having more hook-ups. Another important aspect of pocket water nymphing is you can get closer to the fish without spooking them. Many times I catch fish almost right at my feet. = = · Most nymph casts are 10 feet or less. You need to have line control. Nymphing is usually done with short, upstream or across casts. I occasionally pick-up fish with a downstream approach and sometimes that is the only way to go, but I focus mainly on upstream nymphing. = = · The basic approach starts with getting the flies to the fish. You need to be near or even on the bottom. Weight adjustment is crucial. I mainly use small B and BB split-shots, but have a variety of shots. You need a natural drift as close to the bottom as possible. Feel those shots bouncing on the bottom! Its alright if you get hung-up, this way you know you are where you need to be. Use your casting hand fingers (Index and Middle) to feel the line. = = · Watch for any hesitation at the tip of the line. Sometimes the stop is bottom, but many times its a fish. I dont believe in strike indicators. You need to use your senses to become a good nymph angler. Detecting the strike can be persistent to conquer nymphing. = = · Most of the time, I use two nymphs. Vary the distance between the dropper and the lead fly (15-24 inches). In deeper pocket water go with the greater distance and in the shallow riffles cut back the distance. Also, remember, the closer the split-shot, the closer it will ride to the bottom. = = · Most of the time, I use two nymphs. Vary the distance between the dropper and the lead fly (15-24 inches). In deeper pocket water go with the greater distance and in the shallow riffles cut back the distance. Also, remember, the closer the split-shot, the closer it will ride to the bottom. = = · Learning the basics to nymphing will increase your catches dramatically!! =

= Streamer Fast Facts = = = = · Become aware of the minnow life in area streams you intend to fish. Watch the minnows actions.Example: A Sculpin feeds slowly, and then darts away. A Red Fin like fast water, but it does not move quickly unless in danger = = · If you have experienced fishing live minnows, you may have taken many fish on a slow retrieve. Watch a good minnow man and you can learn a lot. = = · Streamers, overall, catch more big trout than any other fly group. = = · The down and across method works the best. The current will help you along and push the fly. You will also cover a lot of water. = = · Be careful with your cast allowing the heavy streamer to load behind you. If you bring back the cast too quick, you might end up with a split-shot slamming into your head or worse yet, catching your ear instead of a fish. = = · When fishing streamers, use the slow hand-twist method. Bounce the rod tip about five inches allowing the streamer to settle and then lift and twist. If you use the stripping method, be sure not to strip the line fast. Vary your retrieves, but keep it slow. = = · Do not be afraid to dead-drift the imitation. Trout like an easy meal! = = · If your streamer is not weighted, try a split-shot or two. Remember, the closer the shots are to the hook, the deeper it will be. If you tie your own streamers, weight the front of the hook or weight the entire shank. Front-end weighted flies will ride nose down. If the shank is weighted it will flip over. The key to good streamer fishing it to feel the bottom. = = · Discolored water seems to be the best condition to try streamers. The darker colors score big on muddy waters. Use your black, brown or dark olive colors. Gold tinsel bodies work better with discolored water. = = · If the water is clear, never be afraid to try a streamer that is white or yellow. The silver tinsel bodies seem to bring fish to the fly. Low light days are excellent streamer days no matter the stream conditions. Top Streamers: Woolly Bugger, Muddler Minnow, Mickey Finn, Squirrel Tail, Clouser Minnow, Dark and Light Spruce and Royal Coachman. The list goes on, so keep experimenting. It is well worth it if a 20-incher turns up in the end! =

= Wet Fly Fast Facts = = = = · Wet fly fishing was actually the original way of fly-fishing, even before the dry fly. Today it is the most neglected form of fly-fishing to take trout. = = · You do not need to be a great caster to be a good wet fly angler. Most streams will require only 15-20 foot casts, but on big water you may need a 30-foot cast or more. The nice thing about larger streams the current will help carry your flies. = = · Most people will fish at least two flies and many times go with three. Use the Harvey/Humphreys dropper system. This will double and triple your chances. You may also find the water level that the trout are feeding at. = = · The traditional way is to cast down and across the stream. Try a few rod twitches and hand-twist retrieves to impart action to the fly. Never be afraid to just dead-drift your flies. The key is to be flexible. I sometimes will even fish wets upstream like nymphs or dangle them on top like a dry on the small mountain streams. = = · Wet flies are excellent early season producers, especially for stockies. Stocked trout are used to being fed from overhead at the hatcheries. They are looking up! Sometimes they cannot resist the wets swinging over them. = = · Most of the time the trout will actually hook themselves when taking a wet. Be sure to keep the rod tip up. This will keep the rod at the angle to set the hook, if the fish did not hook himself. Remember, trout inhale, they do not grab and when they take a wet, you will definitely know it. It is a great feeling when they strike! = = · In the early season, wait until later in the day for the water to warm up before fishing wets. Mayflies, like the Quill Gordon and Blue Quill hatch during the mid-day in April. When the fish start feeding, they may actually be chasing the emerger. If you see violent rises, the trout maybe tailing the water as it intercepts the fly before it reaches the surface. It is easier prey for the trout six inches to a foot under the surface. The trout will exert more energy when feeding on top. = = · The Caddis is the most dominate fly group in North America. All streams have various caddis hatches throughout the year. Some of the more popular are the Little Black Caddis, Green Caddis, and the famous Grannom. Caddis hatches can drive dry fly-fishermen absolutely nuts. Through experience I have found that my success during a caddis hatch is taking the fish under the surface fishing wets. Favorite patterns are the Alder, Adams, or Soft-Hackles with various body colors. = = · When nothing seems to be working  give wets a try. Be flexible! Besides, things do not get any better if you hook into two or maybe three fish on the same cast. =

= =

Insect Lifecycle = =
 * The truly wonderful thing about fly-fishing is the fact that, trout have to eat and somewhere in that arsenal of a fly box, you have something they just might be feeding on. Being on the stream while trout are actively feeding can be a powerful experience. Imagine, thousands of insects flying through the air, and trout voraciously feeding at the rising insects. It is the what they are feeding on and the when will the hatch occur that can get confusing. If you are just starting out, not knowing the what and the when can be frustrating.**
 * We know that streamers are designed to imitate some form of baitfish or other food source and terrestrials imitate land- based insects that trout just love on warm summer afternoons. But what about all those other flies that are taking up space in the box? Having a basic understanding of the insect life cycle, can put those other imitations to good use.**
 * Most of what we tie is a mayfly imitation. Others are caddis, stoneflies and terrestrials. Each has its place in the trouts diet. The mayfly has three parts to its lifecycle that are of interest to the fly-fisherman. Depending on the species, this incomplete metamorphosis can take place in a few hours to over several weeks. The three parts of the mayfly lifecycle are: egg, nymph, and adult.**
 * The nymph naturally makes up most of the trouts diet because this is the part of the cycle that is in the water the longest. As they age, they also increase in size. Older nymphs can be recognized by their dark wing pad. It is known that water temperature and weather affect the behavior of insects. One thing is certain, during the morning and evening hours, nymphs will dislodge themselves and drift in the current to another location. Fishermen know that during these times, trout are more active and this could be a reason why. There are four types of nymphs for trout to choose from: clingers, crawlers, burrowers and swimmers.**
 * Clingers are found in fast moving water. They have a flat and broad shape. March Browns and Light Cahills are examples of this type of nymph. Because of the faster water, these types of nymphs molt from their shucks faster, making the use of a wet fly a good option.**
 * In the slower riffles are the crawlers. Hendricksons and Sulphurs are examples. Crawlers make-up a large portion of the nymph family.**
 * Burrower nymphs are usually found in rivers with a soft-silty bottom. Green Drakes and Brown Drakes are examples. The appearance of this type of mayfly is usually short lived.**
 * Swimmer nymphs can be found in all types of water. The Isonychia is an example. Since these nymphs move, some action can be applied to the retrieve.**
 * As the mayfly nymph leaves the bottom of the stream and prepares to rise to the surface, it takes on the form of an emerger. As it rises to the surface, it starts to shed its shuck. It is at this point that wings appear. It is here that the nymph is at one of the most susceptible points in the cycle. Many anglers make the mistake and think trout are taking the Duns ( a newly hatched mayfly adult). It looks that way because you can see trout coming to the surface. If you see a boil or a splashy rise that is usually an indication that they are feeding on the emergers.**
 * Once the emerger reaches the surface of the water, it will continue to shed its shuck. It may do this while riding on the surface of the stream or it may crawl from the water onto a rock or bank. This is the Dun or Sub-Imago stage of the mayfly. Once their wings are dry, it will fly up into the trees to molt into its final stage. The duns usually have smoky gray colored wings, shorter legs and shorter tails. The males can be identified by their larger eyes.**
 * Once the molting has taken place, the mayfly becomes a mature adult, Spinner or Imago. The wings become clear and both the tails and legs lengthen. Swarms will start to appear above the stream. This usually takes place prior to dusk or at dawn. Swarming times depend on the species. It is in these swarms that the mayflies will mate. The female will then drop to the waters surface to deposit her eggs. As the males and females die, they fall spent to the waters surface. This is referred to as a spinner fall.**
 * Understanding the lifecycle of the mayfly will not only enrich your interest in the sport but it will also increase your chances of catching more fish.**
 * Caddis Flies**
 * At the beginning of the season the mayflies start to emerge but after the season is under way, the caddis fly presents itself. These flies can be fished for months into the season. Caddis flies follow four stages of development or complete metamorphosis. That is, egg, larva, pupa, and adult. They can be fished as larva, since it is in this stage that they spend most of their life, by drifting them near the bottom. As they develop into the pupa stage, a wing pad and other adult features appear. It is in this emergence state that they become more active. It is here that you will see an increase in fish activity. As a fly fisherman you should carry a selection of caddis flies in these various stages. Different streams can produce different colors of caddis. The main colors to have on hand would be olive/brown, tan and black.**


 * [[file:///H:/Trout/flys.htm#top|Return to the top of the page.]] **

Harvey/Humphreys Leader System = 1. // Dry Fly Leader (#10-#16): 9½ ft. to 4x //=

= .017 - 10/ .015  20/ .013  20 / .011(0x)  20 / .009(2x)  12 / .008(3x)  18 / .007(4x)  22-30 = = 2. // Dry Fly Leader (#16 - #20): 10½ ft. to 5x or 6x //=

= .017  10 / .015  20 / .013  20 / .011(0x)  20 / .009(2x)  12 / .008(3x)  12 / .007(4x)  18 / .006(5x)  18 / .005(6x)  22  30 =

= NOTE: The 5x section should be 22-30 if it is the last section. The leader will be longer with the 6x as the last section. = = 3. // Streamer: 6½ - 7½ ft. to 3x or 4x //=

= .017  10 / .015  15 / .013  15 / .011(0x)  15 / .009(2x)  15 / .008(3x)  18 = = 4. // Nymph (Big Water): 9½ ft. to 4x //=

= .017  10 / .015  18 / .013  18 / .011(0x)  18 / .009(2x)  12 / .008(3x)  18 / .007(4x)  22 =

= Note: Most nymph leaders should be slightly shorter than your rod for control. You can also run a dropper and fish two flies. The dropper should come off the second to last section. = = 5. // Wet Fly with Dropper: 10½ ft. to 4x //=

= .017  10 / .015  20 / .013  20 / .011(0x)  20 / .009(2x)  12 / .008(3x)  18+4 / .007(4x)  22-30 =

= NOTE: Be sure to leave the heavier tippet as the dropper, this will decrease the tangles. Droppers heavier than 4x tend to twist easily. The wet fly method should be fished with two or three flies. You will cover more water and catch more fish. = = o [|Fishing Knots] = = o [|Killroy's Fishing Knots] =
 * Not sure of your knots? The following sites may be of some help.**

= =

Nymph Recipes || ****
 * [[file:///H:/Trout/flys.htm#caddise|Caddis Emerger]] || [[file:///H:/Trout/flys.htm#cressbug|Cress Bug]] || [[file:///H:/Trout/flys.htm#grhe|Gold Ribbed Hare's Ear]] ||
 * [[file:///H:/Trout/flys.htm#greendrake|Green Drake]] || [[file:///H:/Trout/flys.htm#isonychia|Isonychia]] || [[file:///H:/Trout/flys.htm#lightcahill|Light Cahill]] || [[file:///H:/Trout/flys.htm#marchbrown|March Brown]] ||
 * [[file:///H:/Trout/flys.htm#peekingcaddis|Peeking Caddis]] || [[file:///H:/Trout/flys.htm#pheasanttail|Pheasant Tail]] || [[file:///H:/Trout/flys.htm#sulphur|Sulphur]] || [[file:///H:/Trout/flys.htm#zebra|Zebra Nymph]] ||

= Caddis Pupa =

= HOOK: Mustad 3399A #10-#18 = = THREAD: 6/0 Brown = = RIB: Thin silver or gold wire = = BODY: Olive poly dubbing = = HEAD: gray or brown dubbing = = NOTE: The olive dubbing is by far the best color to imiate the caddis pupa. =

= Caddis Emerger =

= HOOK: Mustad 9671 #12-#18 = = THREAD: 6/0 Tan = = TAIL: Tan Z-Lon = = BODY: Natural Hare's Ear dubbing = = UNDERWING: Tan Z-Lon = = WING: Tan elk hair = = HEAD: Dark hare's ear dubbing = = NOTE: Alter your colors to match local conditions. =

= Cress Bug =

= HOOK: Mustad 3399A #10-#18 =

= THREAD: 6/0 Gray =

= BODY: Natural Hare's Ear Antron dubbing =

= HACKLE: Palmered about four turns and clipped close to the top of the nymph, leave legs as long as hook gap. =

= NOTE: Great on limestone streams where duckweed is found. =

= Gold Ribbed Hare's Ear =

= HOOK: Mustad 9671 #6-#14 =

= THREAD: 6/0 Black =

= TAIL: Pheasant tail fibers =

= BODY: Various hare's ear colors. Top colors: natural, olive, black or brown. =

= WING CASE: Turkey tail THORAX: Hare's ear dubbing =

= LEGS: Brown hackle fibers or use dubbing needle to pick out hairs from thorax NOTE: This is perhaps the best all-purpose nymph if tied in different colors and sizes. A good early season choice is olive #12-#14. This fly will imitate the Quill Gordon. =

= Green Drake =

= HOOK: Mustad 3906B #8-#10 =

= THREAD: 6/0 Tan =

= BODY: Light tan dubbing =

= WING CASE: Brown turkey feather or several pheasant tail fibers. =

= THORAX: Light tan dubbing. =

= LEGS: Pheasant tail tips. =

= NOTE: This nymph has a brown stripe up the back. Use a permanent marker. Excellent fly for Penns Creek in late May and early June. =

= Isonychia =

= HOOK: Mustad 9671 #8-#14 =

= THREAD: 6/0 Black =

= TAIL: Peacock tips (3) =

= RIB: Thin silver or gold wire (counter wrapped) BODY: Wrapped peacock strands. Wrap 5-6 strands together 2/3 of the way up the hook. =

= WING CASE: Black dubbing (dub the remainder of the hook) =

= LEGS: Wood duck =

= NOTE: Nymph of the Slate Drake. Hatches from June to October. =

= Light Cahill =

= HOOK: Mustad 3906 #12-#16 =

= THREAD: 6/0 Cream =

= TAIL: Natural wood duck =

= BODY: Cream dubbing =

= WING CASE: Natural wood duck =

= THORAX: Cream dubbing. =

= LEGS: Natural wood duck (bearded style) =

= March Brown =

= HOOK: Mustad 9672 (3x long) #8-#14 =

= THREAD: 6/0 Black =

= TAIL: Pheasant tail fibers =

= RIB: Thin brown or tan floss BODY: Yellow/brown dubbing =

= WING CASE: Bronze turkey feather =

= LEGS: Brown hackle fibers =

= NOTE: You probably won't find a better nymph to use in the month of May than this pattern if the stream you are fishing has a good March Brown and Gray Fox population. =

= Peeking Caddis =

= HOOK: Mustad 3399A #10-#18 =

= THREAD: 6/0 Brown =

= BODY: Narural hare's ear dubbing =

= COLLAR: Insect green dubbing =

= HEAD: Dark hare's ear dubbing. =

= Pheasant Tail =

= HOOK: Mustad 3906 #12-#18 =

= THREAD: 6/0 Brown =

= TAIL: Pheasant tail fibers =

= BODY: Pheasant tail =

= WING CASE: Pheasant tail =

= THORAX: Brown dubbing. =

= LEGS: Pheasant tail tips =

= NOTE: Add a bead for more effect. =

= Sulphur =

= HOOK: Mustad 3906 #12-#18 =

= THREAD: 6/0 Pale yellow =

= TAIL: Wood duck =

= BODY: Cream, pale yellow or light orange dubbing =

= LEGS: Wood duck =

= Zebra Nymph =

= HOOK: Mustad 3399A #16-#20 =

= THREAD: 6/0 Black =

= HEAD: Gold bead to match hook size =

= RIB: Silver tinsel =

= BODY: Black thread. Keep it thin. =

= NOTE: Great summer time nymph when there is no hatch to match. =

= =

= =

Wet Fly Recipes = = ||
 * [[file:///H:/Trout/flys.htm#darkcahill|Dark Cahill]] || [[file:///H:/Trout/flys.htm#darkhendrickson|Dark Hendrickson]] || [[file:///H:/Trout/flys.htm#leadwing|Leadwing Coachman]] || [[file:///H:/Trout/flys.htm#lightcahill|Light Cahill]] ||
 * [[file:///H:/Trout/flys.htm#pandp|P & P]] || [[file:///H:/Trout/flys.htm#professor|Professor]] || [[file:///H:/Trout/flys.htm#royal|Royal Coachman]] || [[file:///H:/Trout/flys.htm#soft|Soft-Hackle]] || [[file:///H:/Trout/flys.htm#sulphure|Sulphur Emerger]] ||

= Adams =

= HOOK: Mustad 3399A #8-#16 =

= THREAD: 6/0 Black or gray =

= TAIL: Brown hackle fibers =

= BODY: Gray dubbing (muskrat or rabbit) =

= LEGS: Brown hackle =

= WING: Grizzly hackle tips =

= Dark Cahill =

= HOOK: Mustad 3399A #8-#16 =

= THREAD: 6/0 Black or gray =

= TAIL: Brown hackle fibers =

= BODY: Gray dubbing (muskrat or rabbit) =

= LEGS: Brown hackle =

= WING: Wood duck =

= Dark Henrickson =

= HOOK: Mustad 3399A #8-#16 =

= THREAD: 6/0 Black or gray =

= TAIL: Gray hackle or dun fibers =

= BODY: Gray dubbing (muskrat or rabbit) =

= LEGS: Gray hackle or dun =

= WING: Wood duck =

= NOTE: Superb wet during the Blue Quill, Quill Gordon and Hendrickson hatches. =

= Leadwing Coachman =

= HOOK: Mustad 3399A #8-#16 =

= THREAD: 6/0 Black =

= TAIL: None =

= BODY: Peacock (5-6 strands) =

= LEGS: Brown hackle =

= WING: Mallard wing (brown). Be sure to take two wing feathers that match (one from each side). Cut a small section from each that are identical. =

= NOTE: This fly imitates the caddis emergers of April and May. =

= Light Cahill =

= HOOK: Mustad 3399A #12-#18 =

= THREAD: 6/0 Cream =

= TAIL: Wood duck flank fibers =

= BODY: Cream dubbing =

= LEGS: Dark cream hackle =

= WING: Wood duck flank =

= P & P =

= HOOK: Mustad 3399A #8-#14 =

= THREAD: 6/0 Black =

= TAIL: Golden pheasant tips =

= RIB: Gold tinsel BODY: Peacock (5-6 strands) =

= LEGS: Brown hackle =

= NOTE: Tremendous early season fly =

= Professor =

= HOOK: Mustad 3399A #6-#16 =

= THREAD: 6/0 Black =

= TAIL: Red hackle fibers =

= RIB: Silver tinsel BODY: Yellow floss (5-6 strands) =

= LEGS: Brown hackle =

= WING: Mallard Breast feather =

= NOTE: Tremendous early season fly =

= Royal Coachman =

= HOOK: Mustad 3399A #8-#16 =

= THREAD: 6/0 Black =

= TAIL: Golden pheasant tips =

= BODY: Peacock- red floss- peacock =

= LEGS: Brown hackle =

= WING: Mallard wing (white). Be sure to take two wing feathers that match (one from each side). Cut a small section from each that are identical. =

= Soft hackle =

= HOOK: Mustad 3399A #8-#16 =

= THREAD: 6/0 Various colors to match body =

= BODY: Various colors of dubbing (brown, black, gray, yellow, orange, olive) =

= WING: Small partridge feather with two of three wraps =

= NOTE: The soft hackle imitates the many emerging Caddis flies. =

= Sulphur Emerger =

= HOOK: Mustad 94840 #14-#20 =

= THREAD: 6/0 Pale yellow =

= TAIL: Wood duck =

= BODY: Pale yellow or sulphur orange dubbing =

= WING: Light dun or natural CDC =

= NOTE: Dub two-thirds of the way, tie in the wing and then dub to the eye of the hook. =

= =

= =

Dry Fly Recipes = = || **** = =
 * [[file:///H:/Trout/flys.htm#blue|Blue Quill]] || [[file:///H:/Trout/flys.htm#caddis|Caddis]] || [[file:///H:/Trout/flys.htm#coffin|Coffin Fly]] || [[file:///H:/Trout/flys.htm#grayfox|Gray Fox]] ||
 * [[file:///H:/Trout/flys.htm#green|Green Drake]] || [[file:///H:/Trout/flys.htm#lightc|Light Cahill]] || [[file:///H:/Trout/flys.htm#march|March Brown]] || [[file:///H:/Trout/flys.htm#quill|Quill Gordon]] ||  ||
 * [[file:///H:/Trout/flys.htm#red|Red Quill]] || [[file:///H:/Trout/flys.htm#royalc|Royal Coachman]] || [[file:///H:/Trout/flys.htm#slate|Slate Drake]] || [[file:///H:/Trout/flys.htm#stimulator|Stimulator]] || [[file:///H:/Trout/flys.htm#sulphurd|Sulphur Dun]] ||

= Adams =

= HOOK: Mustad 94840 #8-#20 =

= THREAD: 6/0 Black or gray =

= WING: Grizzly hackle tips (upright and divided =

= TAIL: Brown and grizzly mixed =

= BODY: Gray dubbing (muskrat or rabbit) =

= HACKLE: Brown and grizzly mixed (one of each). =

= Blue Quill =

= HOOK: Mustad 94840 #18-#20 =

= THREAD: 6/0 Gray =

= WING: Gray hackle tips (upright and divided) =

= TAIL: Gray hackle fibers =

= BODY: Peacock herl stripped =

= HACKLE: Light or medium blue dun =

= Caddis =

= HOOK: Mustad 94840 #14-#18 =

= THREAD: 6/0 Brown =

= BODY: Olive-brown or tan =

= HACKLE: Brown (palmered through body) =

= WING: Elk hair (tips should not extend past the bend of the hook.) =

= NOTE: Some people prefer to tie in the hackle in the front of the hook. If you look at the Caddis fly on the stream, you will notice their wings form in the shape of a tent. Substitute turkey feather for the elk hair for this effect. =

= Coffin Fly =

= HOOK: Mustad 94840 #8-#10 =

= THREAD: 6/0 White =

= TAIL: Light tan deer hair =

= BODY: White poly, dubbed =

= WING: Grayish poly yarn, tied spent. =

= Gray Fox =

= HOOK: Mustad 94840 #12-#16 =

= THREAD: 6/0 Cream =

= WING: Mallard flank (upright and divided) =

= TAIL: Deer hair =

= BODY: Cream poly, dubbed =

= HACKLE: One brown, one grizzly. =

= Green Drake =

= HOOK: Mustad 94840 #6-#10 =

= THREAD: 6/0 Cream =

= WING: Yellow calf tail (upright and divided =

= TAIL: Moose mane, tied in the shape of a V. =

= BODY: Cream or light tan dubbing =

= HACKLE: Two grizzly hackles. =

= Light Cahill =

= HOOK: Mustad 94840 #12-#18 =

= THREAD: 6/0 Cream =

= WING: Wood duck (upright and divided) =

= TAIL: Cream hackle fibers =

= BODY: Cream dubbing =

= HACKLE: Cream or grizzly =

= March Brown =

= HOOK: Mustad 94840 #10-#140 =

= THREAD: 6/0 Yellow =

= WING: Mallard flank (upright and divided) =

= TAIL: Brown hackle fibers =

= BODY: Tan dubbung =

= HACKLE: One brown, one grizzly. =

= Quill Gordon =

= HOOK: Mustad 94840 #10-#14 =

= THREAD: 6/0 Olive =

= WING: Wood duck (upright and divided) =

= TAIL: Dun hackle fibers =

= BODY: Stripped Peacock eye =

= RIB Thin gold wire wrapped counterclockwise. =

= HACKLE: Dun (2) =

= NOTE Good mayfly of mid-April to Late-April. The hatch usually appears around 1:00  4:00 p.m. =

= Red Quill =

= HOOK: Mustad 94840 #10-#16 =

= THREAD: 6/0 Brown =

= WING: Wood duck (upright and divided) =

= TAIL: Dun hackle fibers =

= BODY: Rhode Island Red stripped quill =

= RIB Thin gold wire wrapped counterclockwise. =

= HACKLE: Dun (2) =

= NOTE The Red Quill is the male Hendrickson. The Hendrickson hatch occurs in early-May. =

= Royal Coachman =

= HOOK: Mustad 94840 #12-#16 =

= THREAD: 6/0 Black =

= WING: White calf tail (upright and divided) =

= TAIL: Golden pheasant tips =

= BODY: Peacock-red floss-peacock =

= HACKLE: Brown (2) =

= Slate Drake =

= HOOK: Mustad 94840 #-#16 =

= THREAD: 6/0 Black =

= WING: Dark dun tips (upright and divided) =

= TAIL: Dark Dun hackle fibers =

= BODY: Rusty brown dubbing =

= HACKLE: Dark dun (2) =

= NOTE Sporadic hatch that occurs throughout the summer. The nymph of the Slate Drake is the Isonychia. =

= Stimulator =

= HOOK: Mustad 94840 #4-#18 =

= THREAD: 6/0 Fluorescent fire orange =

= TAIL: Light or dark elk fibers =

= RIB Thin gold wire =

= ABDOMEN: Peacock herl-red floss-peacock herl with brown hackle palmered through abdomen. Additional colors: olive, black, yellow, orange, green and tan with palmered brown hackle. =

= WING: Light or dark elk =

= THORAX: Orange, yellow or cream dubbing =

= HACKLE: Grizzly palmered through thorax =

= NOTE As you can see, this is a very versatile fly with many color combinations. Larger sizes can imitate stoneflies, Smaller sizes can imitate Caddis. =

= Sulphur Dun =

= HOOK: Mustad 94840 #10-#18 =

= THREAD: 6/0 Pale yellow =

= WING: Cream hackle tips (upright and divided) =

= TAIL: Blue Dun or cream hackle fibers =

= BODY: Cream, pale yellow or light orange dubbing =

= HACKLE: Blue Dun or cream (2) =

= NOTE Productive mid-May to the end of June. =

= =

= =

Terrestrial Recipes = = || **** = =
 * [[file:///H:/Trout/flys.htm#antr|Ant(Red/Black)]] || [[file:///H:/Trout/flys.htm#anth|Ant(Hard Bodied)]] || [[file:///H:/Trout/flys.htm#crowe|Crowe Beetle]] ||
 * [[file:///H:/Trout/flys.htm#greenw|Green Weenie]] || [[file:///H:/Trout/flys.htm#letortc|Letort Cricket]] || [[file:///H:/Trout/flys.htm#letorth|Letort Hopper]] ||  ||
 * Tying note: While we like to tie with fur and feathers, the use of foam material for all or parts of these patterns may be substituted.**

= Ant(Black and Cinnamon) =

= HOOK: Mustad 94840 #12-#24 =

= THREAD: 6/0 Black =

= BODY: Black or cinnamon brown dubbing =

= HACKLE: Black or brown one hackle- make 2 or 3 turns). Tie in hackle at the midsection of the hook. =

= Ant(Red/Black) =

= HOOK: Mustad 94840 #12-#24 =

= THREAD: 6/0 Black =

= BODY: Cinnamon at abdomen. Black at front section. =

= HACKLE: Black or hackle- make 2 or 3 turns). Tie in hackle at the midsection of the hook. =

= Ant(Hard Bodied) =

= HOOK: Mustad 94840 #12-#16 =

= THREAD: 6/0 Black, brown, red, orange =

= BODY: Wrap the tying thread into two round bulges at the back and front of the hook. The abdomen (back) should be somewhat larger than the head. =

= HACKLE: Black or brown one hackle- make 2 or 3 turns). Tie in hackle at the midsection of the hook. =

= NOTE: Be sure to add head cement to each bulge. This fly is usually fished like a nymph. Add it as a dropper for a little something extra! =

= Crowe Beetle =

= HOOK: Mustad 94840 #10-#20 =

= THREAD: 6/0 Black =

= BODY: Wrap 3 or 4 strands of Peacock and bring thread back to rear of the hook. =

= OVER-BODY: Black deer hair. Tie down with tips extending to the rear of the fly. Pull forward tightly and tie down. Clip off deer hair to form head and leave three pieces of deer hair extending out on each side for the six legs. =

= NOTE: Coat the body with vinyl cement. This fly imitates many types of beetles. Fish along the banks in the middle of the summer afternoons! =

= Green Weenie =

= HOOK: Mustad 9671 #12-#16 =

= THREAD: 6/0 Black =

= BODY: Chartreuse vernielle =

= NOTE: Try this fly with a bead. =

= Letort Cricket =

= HOOK: Mustad 9671 or 9672 #6-#16 =

= THREAD: 6/0 Black =

= BODY: Black dubbing =

= WING: Section of black turkey feather. =

= OVER WING: Black deer hair placed over the wing. =

= HEAD: Spun black deer hair(trim and shape) =

= Letort Hopper =

= HOOK: Mustad 9671 or 9672 #6-#16 =

= THREAD: 6/0 Brown or yellow =

= BODY: Yellow, cream, tan or orange dubbing. =

= WING: Section of mottled turkey feather. =

= OVER WING: Natural deer hair placed over the wing. =

= HEAD: Spun deer hair(trim and shape) =

= =

= =

Streamer Recipes = = || **** = =
 * [[file:///H:/Trout/flys.htm#leech|Leech]] || [[file:///H:/Trout/flys.htm#mickey|Mickey Finn]] ||
 * [[file:///H:/Trout/flys.htm#mud|Muddler Minnow]] || [[file:///H:/Trout/flys.htm#squirrel|Squirrel Tail]] || [[file:///H:/Trout/flys.htm#wooly|Wooly Bugger]] ||

= Egg Sucking Leech =

= HOOK: Mustad 9674 #6-#12 =

= THREAD: 6/0 Black =

= TAIL: Black Maribou =

= BODY: Black chenille =

= HACKLE: Black(palmered) =

= HEAD: Several wraps of hot pink chenille =

= Leech =

= HOOK: Mustad 9674 #2-#8 =

= THREAD: 6/0 Black =

= WEIGHT: Wrap heavy lead wire the length of the body. =

= BODY: Build-up a lot of dubbing. Best colors: gray, black, dark brown. =

= TAIL & WING: Fur-hackle same color as body. Tail should be length of hook. =

= Mickey Finn =

= HOOK: Mustad 9674 #6-#12 =

= THREAD: 6/0 Black =

= BODY: Gold or Silver mylar tinsel =

= WING: Red bucktail, yellow bucktail (2 of one color outside) =

= NOTE: Good early season attractor pattern. =

= Muddler Minnow =

= HOOK: Mustad 9674 #2-#14 =

= THREAD: 6/0 Black =

= Tail: Turkey =

= BODY: Gold mylar tinsel =

= WING: Turkey wings (paired). Place some strands of squirrel tail as under wing. =

= HEAD: Spun and clipped deer hair =

= NOTE: Perhaps the best streamer available. Imitates sculpin minnow and even can be fished dry to imitate a grasshopper. Slow twitches work best. =

= Squirrel Tail =

= HOOK: Mustad 9674 #6-#12 =

= THREAD: 6/0 Black =

= Tail: Turkey =

= BODY: Gold mylar tinsel =

= WING: Gray squirrel tail =

= Throat: Red hackle fibers =

= NOTE: Good early season fly. Imitates the red-Fin Minnow =

= Wooly Bugger =

= HOOK: Mustad 9674 #6-#12 =

= THREAD: 6/0 Black =

= Tail: Various colors of maribou =

= BODY: Various colors of chenille. =

= HACKLE: Black or grizzly(palmered) =

= NOTE: Mix some silver or gold tinsel with the maribou. Try a bead. Color combination include black/black, olive/olive, olive/black, black/olive, brown/brown. =

= =

= =

Miscellaneous Fly Recipes = = || **** = =
 * [[file:///H:/Trout/flys.htm#san|San Juan Worm]] ||

= Glo Bug =

= HOOK: Mustad #10 =

= THREAD: 3/0 Any color =

= BODY: Glo Bug Yarn. Best color: Think in terms of a salmon egg because this is what it imitates. =

= NOTE: Start with 3 pieces about 2 inches long. Tie in the first piece just before the bend of the hook. Tie it in perpendicular to the hook, using an X wrap. Tie in the next piece and the last piece, just in front of each other working toward the eye of the hook. Whip finish. Hold up the 3 pieces and cut. =

= San Juan Worm =

= HOOK: Mustad 9671 #12-#16 =

= THREAD: 6/0 Red =

= BODY: Red Vernille. =

= NOTE: Tie in the material at the back of the hook leaving a ½ inch piece hang out the back. Wrap thread forward, just behind the eye and tie off the front of the material with a ½ inch piece hanging over the front. =

= =

= =

Shopping List = = = = = =
 * The following is a list of items used to tie the flies listed here.**
 * ** Thread (in 6/0 and 3/0) **
 * o Cream
 * o Black
 * o Brown
 * o Gray
 * o Pale Yellow
 * o Fluorescent Orange || Hare's Ear Dubbing
 * o Natural
 * o Black
 * o Gray
 * o Olive
 * o Yellow
 * o Insect Green
 * o Peacock Eye
 * o Peacock Herl
 * o Imitation Wood Duck(dyed in different colors)
 * o Muskrat ||  ||   ||
 * ||  || Hackle
 * o Grizzly
 * o Brown
 * o Cream
 * o Dun(light and dark shades)
 * o Red Hackle Feathers
 * o Golden Pheasant Feathers
 * o Pheasant Tail
 * o Mallard Breast Feathers(dyed in different colors) ||  ||
 * ||  ||   || Mallard Wing
 * o Brown
 * o White
 * o Black
 * o Partridge Feathers ||
 * || Floss
 * o Brown
 * o Red
 * o Yellow || Poly Wing
 * o Light Gray
 * o Squirrel Tail
 * o Turkey Feather ||  ||
 * || Marabou
 * o Black
 * o Olive || Tinsel(various widths)
 * o Gold
 * o Silver || Buck Tail
 * o Red
 * o Yellow ||
 * Chenille
 * o Brown
 * o Black
 * o Olive
 * o Hot Pink
 * o Yellow || Deer Body Hair
 * o Natural
 * o Black
 * o Natural Elk Body Hair
 * o Glo Bug Yarn ||  ||   ||
 * Vernille
 * o Red
 * o Insect Green || Hooks(Mustad)
 * o 94840
 * o 3399A
 * o 3906B
 * o 9671
 * o 9672
 * o 9674 || CDC
 * o Natural ||  ||

= = = =

Monthly Fly Chart = = = = = = = =
 * The following is a monthly list of the most common flies found on Pennsylvania streams. This list should not be considered complete. Also, please understand that weather, temperature and location play a great role on the hatching of insects. This should only be used as a reference.**
 * ** January **
 * o Bead Head Nymphs
 * o Wooly Bugger || February
 * o Wooly Bugger
 * o San Juan Worm
 * o Squirrel Tail
 * o Glo Bug
 * o Bead Head Nymphs
 * o Cress Bugs || March
 * o Green Weenie
 * o Wooly Bugger
 * o Hare's Ear
 * o Pheasant Tail
 * o Glo Bug
 * o San Juan Worm ||
 * April
 * o Hare's Ear
 * o Professor
 * o P&P
 * o Adams
 * o Quill Gordon (mid-month)
 * o Leadwing Coachman
 * o Wooly Bugger
 * o Bead Head Nymphs
 * o Glo Bugs
 * o San Juan Worms
 * o Green Weenie
 * o Red Quill(late month)
 * o Hendrickson(late month)
 * o Pheasant Tail || May
 * o Sulphur(mid-month)
 * o Green Drake(mid-month)
 * o March Brown(mid-month)
 * o Gray Fox(mid-month)
 * o Caddis
 * o Hendrickson(early month)
 * o Pheasant Tail Nymph
 * o San Juan Worm
 * o Leadwing Coachman
 * o Red Quill(early month)
 * o Wooly Bugger
 * o Green Weenie || June
 * o Light Cahill
 * o Sulphur
 * o Ants
 * o Beetles
 * o Slate Drake
 * o Isonychia
 * o Caddis
 * o Stimulator
 * o Yellow Drake
 * o Wooly Bugger ||
 * JULY
 * o SanJuan Worm
 * o Caddis
 * o Light Cahill
 * o Green Weenie
 * o Slate Drakes
 * o Isonychia
 * o Terrestrials || August
 * o Terrestials
 * o Slate Drake
 * o White Fly(on select streams)
 * o Caddis
 * o Scud || September
 * o Terrestials
 * o Midges
 * o Scuds
 * o Wooly Bugger
 * o Caddis
 * o Green Weenie ||
 * October
 * o Terrestrials
 * o Scuds
 * o Tan Caddis
 * o Slate Drake
 * o Wooly Bugger
 * o San Juan Worm
 * o Bead Head Nymphs || November/December
 * o Caddis(Nov.)
 * o Terrestrials(Nov.)
 * o Midges
 * o San Juan Worm
 * o Bead Head Nymphs
 * o Sucker Spawn
 * o Glo Bug
 * o Green Weenie
 * o Streamers
 * o Wooly Bugger ||  ||

Sources/Links = = = o [|Fly Anglers Online] = = o [|Fly Fishing Journal] = = o [|Fly Fishing Connection] = = o [|Fly Tying World] = = o [|Fly tying information from the Federation of Fly Fishers] = = o [|Tie 1 On] = = o [|Flyfisher's Paradise (right here in PA)] = = o [|Ultimate Fly Tying] = = o [|Killroy's Fly Tying] = = =
 * Sources Consulted**
 * Meck, Charles. "Pennsylvania Trout Streams and Their Hatches." Second Edition. Backcountry Publications, Woodstock, Vermont. 1993.**
 * The Fly Fishing Connection. http://www.flyfishingconnection.com/abugslife.html July 12, 2004.**
 * Michigan Trout - Opening Day and the Mayfly. http://www.flymartonline.com/article165.html July 12, 2004**
 * Eastern Kentucky University Department of Biological Sciences. http://www.biology.eku.edu/SCHUSTER/bio542/MAYFLIES.htm July 12, 2004.**
 * Hafele, Rick and Scott Roederer. An Anglers Guide to Aquatic Insects and Their Imitations. Johnson Publishing, Boulder, CO. 1987.**
 * Additional Fly Fishing/Fly Tying Information:**
 * Thinking of trying some saltwater fly fishing? We gave it a try and you can see the results.** [[image:http://swataramslibrary.wikispaces.com/site/embedthumbnail/placeholder?w=200&h=250 width="200" height="250" caption="A Cape Cod Striper."]]
 * Here are a few sites that can get you started:**
 * [|Joe Branham's Saltwater Fly Tying] ||
 * [|Reel_Time Online] ||
 * [|Fly Fishing in Saltwater] ||
 * [|Saltwater Fly Fishers] ||
 * [[file:///H:/Trout/flys.htm#top|Return to the top of the page.]] **

Please e-mail to Doug at dalichwer@paonline.com

 * Last update: July 9, 2006**